December 15, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Where are the bed bugs?

Positive identification is crucial to developing a plan to treat bed bugs.

Bed Bug Inspections and Evidence

When conducting an inspection for bed bugs, you will be looking for evidence of bed bugs. Evidence could be seeing live or dead bed bugs in or around the bed. The picture above shows a bed bug on the quarter. Other forms of evidence would be seeing the excrement of the bed bugs. The excrement will look like tiny black spots, that are concentrated in clusters. Here is a picture of bed bug excrement. If you spot any of these signs during your inspection, you have identified a bed bug situation. Let’s take a look at some common bed bug hiding places.

Bed Bug Hiding Places: The Mattress

It may sound obvious, but a thorough inspection of the bed is a great first step in identifying a bed bug issue. Bed Bugs are considered crack and crevice insects. This means that unless the infestation is severe, the bed bugs will not usually be found in the middle of the mattress during the day. As the description suggests, bed bugs will be most likely be found along seems, creases, and crevices of the mattress, box spring, and bed.

When inspecting a mattress for bed bugs, remove all of the bedding. This includes blankets, sheets, and pillows, and any padding that is not connected to the mattress. Begin by searching along the seems of the mattress. Besides the seems, common bed bug hiding places on the mattress include the mattress tag. Lift up the mattress tag and inspect for bed bugs, excrement, and eggs.

The box spring inspection is a little different than the mattress inspection. Box springs usually have a cloth underside that is stapled to the sides of the box spring. This thin cloth provides tons of hiding places for the bed bugs. Bed bugs can and will live between stapled areas, and inside of the box spring itself. With permission, remove the cloth and inspect the interior of the box spring. Other areas to look for are at the corners of the box spring. Sometimes the box spring will have plastic corner protectors. Gently pry at the plastic and inspect the area between the plastic and the box spring.

Bed Bug Hiding Places: The Bed

After inspecting the mattress and box spring it is time to inspect the bed itself. Beds, depending on their material, can have a lot of crack and crevices. Inspect the head board, foot board, side rails, and slats. Other areas to inspect include where the side rails connect to the head and foot boards and the feet of the bed. Depending on the color of the bed, it may be difficult to spot some of the bed bug evidence. Make sure to inspect behind the head board, and the bottom of the rails.

Other Bed Bug Hiding Places

After you have inspected the bed and mattress, it is now time to take a look at areas beyond the bed. Since bed bugs are crack and crevice insects, they will squeeze through very small openings. You will want to check the area around the bed in a 10′ foot bubble. For facts and biology on the bed bug, check out Penn State’s Department of Entomology here.

Baseboards

Baseboards are a common area for bed bugs to live and hide. They can easily crawl up the wall and onto the bed or crawl up the bed from the floor. Unless the baseboards are caulked tightly to the floor, which is never the case, bed bugs can easily live under the baseboards. Regardless of whether you have carpeting, laminate, hardwoods, or vinyl, the bed bugs can get under the baseboards. Other areas to insect at the baseboards are the top of the baseboard. If there is a gap at the top of the baseboard where the wall meets, bed bugs will find it. Also, inspect at the corners of the wall where the baseboard may not be caulked.

Wall Paneling

Wall panels create many potential bed bug harborage areas. Check the seems where the wall panels meet for excrement. Other areas to inspect are where the wall panel meets the floor or baseboard. Make sure you also inspect where the wall panel meets the ceiling for evidence of bed bugs. Lastly, inspect for any cracks or damage to the wall panel which would allow bed bugs access.

Drop Ceiling

A drop ceiling, just like the wall panels, provide many opportunities for bed bugs to hide. Inspect first along where the ceiling meets the wall. Make sure to inspect the paneling and the supports. Pay particular attention to where the metal supports meet at the top of the wall.

Misc Hiding Places

Any time there is hole or gap in the wall of ceiling, you have a possible bed bug hiding place. This includes wall sockets and light switches. Inspect around the wall sockets and light switches, removing the covers if needed. Other areas include where conduit, electrical, or plumbing is coming through the wall or ceiling. This could include radiator heating lines, cable conduits, or even plumbing.

You have bed bugs, now what?

Treating for bed bugs is almost a job for a professional exterminator. Not only do we have the best chemicals, we have the knowledge and experience to properly and safely treat your home

Chester County Bed Bugs

If you live in Chester County and have a bed bug issue, we are here to help. Our fully licensed and insured technicians are experienced and knowledgeable to resolve your bed bug issue. Our bed bug treatments are affordable, effective, and professional. Our treatments always consider the health and safety of your family and pets. From the initial consultation to the treatment and the follow-up, you can trust us to resolve your bed bug problem. Contact us to setup an appointment.

Chester County’s Best Exterminators

We specialize in residential and commercial pest control, wildlife control, and termite control. We offer preventative plans that can keep your home or business pest free year-round. All of our technicians are licensed by the State of Pennsylvania and the Pennsylvania Game Commission. As a veteran owned company, you can trust us with your pest problem. Give us a call or send us a message to get pest free today!

December 10, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Moisture Leads to Bug Problems

There are three main conditions that insects need to survive and thrive: Food, Water, and Harborage. Just like people, they need to eat, drink, and have a safe/warm place to live. In this week’s post, we will discuss how water and moisture can lead to bug problems.

Chester County had record breaking rainfall this year. To date, Chester County had approximately 61”of rain according to a map from The National Weather Center. This amount of rainfall is up to 50% higher than average for our area. Since the frequency of rain was higher, the ground stayed moist and didn’t really get a chance to dry out.

Warm, moist conditions allow many insects to thrive and reproduce. We receive a lot of calls for service for ants after a period of rain. Ants are put into one of two categories: wood destroying and nuisance. Wood destroying ants, more commonly called carpenter ants, are very common in Chester County. They live and seek out wood that has high moisture content. Nuisance ants, such as pavement ants, seem to “come out of nowhere” after a period of rain. Although they won’t physically damage your home, nuisance ants can become very concerning for the homeowner.

When it comes to warm and wet soil, termites are the first thing to come to mind. The type of termite that we have in Chester County is the subterranean termite. This type of termite lives underground and will seek out wood that has a higher moisture content. Termites are very good at finding and detecting wood that has a higher moisture content. Once they find that wood, they will start to eat. Termites are called the “silent destroyers” because their damage often goes un-noticed for years. Once discovered, termite damage is sometimes quite extensive and quite expensive to fix. Identifying key moisture issues around the home can identify and or prevent termite infestations.

Other insects that we typically associate with moisture is cockroaches. Cockroaches like warm, damp areas to breed and live. Many times, these areas are in basements and kitchens where moisture is common. Sinks, drains, and even appliances can provide the moisture and harborage for cockroach survival. Depending the species, the cockroaches can even come from the drains. Eliminating moisture zones when dealing with cockroaches is often more difficult due to the moisture being on the inside of the structure.

Other nuisance insects that we associate with moisture include centipedes and crickets. Spiders are also found but that may be more due to the fact that there are other insects present. The same could maybe be said for centipedes since they are also a predatory species. Insects not associated with moisture issues include bed bugs, bees/wasps, and stored product pests.

So where does this moisture come from? On the outside of the home the obvious answer is moisture comes from rain. While true,the real question that should be asked is “why is the moisture not be funneled away from the home?”. Common causes of moisture pooling around the foundation of a home include downspouts and gutters.

Gutters are designed to channel rain from the roof and funnel it into downspouts. These down spouts are supposed to channel that water down from the roof and away from the house. Often times this does not happen correctly. Leaves and other debris can accumulate in the gutters and prevent the water from flowing. This results in the rain spilling over the gutter and landing directly at the foundation of the home.

Downspouts are designed to carry the water and distribute it away from the home. If the down spouts are not long enough at the ground, they will discharge the water directly into the foundation of the home. If the down spouts go underground, they could be compromised by tree roots or just break and water can just collect at the foundation. Sometimes the simple solution is to purchase downspout extenders from the hardware store. These extenders extend the length of the downspout to allow the water to be discharged further from the foundation.

Another major cause of moisture on the outside of the home is incorrect or missing metal flashing. Whether along the roof line or near the gutters, the metal flashing protects the wood underneath from water. Although inexpensive,flashing that is incorrectly installed can cause huge issues when it comes to water channeling. Many times, I have seen a $1piece of incorrectly installed flashing result in thousands of dollars in moisture damage.

Leaking faucets on the outside of the home are another cause of moisture at the foundation. Whether the hose is leaking or the faucet itself is, the steady drip of water can cause big problems. Since the faucet is connected to the house, the leaking water pools and sits directly on the foundation. Checking and inspecting your outdoor faucets for leaks can prevent big moisture issues.

On the inside of the home, moisture can come from many different areas. Common moisture conditions that are not caused by outside moisture include basements, plumbing,and appliances. Leaking pipes from drains can create a moisture issue. Common plumbing issues include leaky toilet seals, and leaky drain pipes. These leaks often are slow and go un-noticed for a long time. Insects coming up from the drains can also be common especially with insects such as the American cockroach.

Sump pumps in basements provide a constant source of moisture. Sump pumps, by their very nature, are installed because there is water under the foundation. There is little that can be done about the level of the water table under the house. The sump pit can be sealed and the basement can be treated on a regular basement if the sump pump water is leading to moisture issues.

Appliances causing moisture issues are typically found in commercial settings such as restaurants. There is little that can be done about a moist commercial dishwasher to prevent water issues. We offer maintenance plans to prevent infestations because eliminating the moisture issue is not always possible.

We offer pest control services to Chester County. Our fully licensed and insured technicians will not only inspect your property for pests, but also identify current and future moisture issues that can lead to insect issues. Our pest control services are affordable,professional, and effective. Give us a call or send us a message to get pest free today!

Citation: US Department of Commerce, and NOAA. “New York/Pennsylvania Year to Date Precipitation Departures.” National Weather Service, NOAA’s National Weather Service, 2 May 2017, www.weather.gov/marfc/NorthPrecipitationYTD. Updated 12/9/2018

December 3, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Squirrel Control Chester County

We offer squirrel control in Chester County. Gray squirrels, affectionately called tree rats, are the most abundant small game found in Pennsylvania. Chester County is home to 4 species of squirrel: the gray squirrel, fox squirrel, red squirrel, and flying squirrel. In this post, we will discuss the gray squirrel and how it affects our Chester County clients.

When we have a client that calls about a squirrel problem, it usually falls into one of two scenarios:

Scenario 1: Squirrels are causing issues outside of the home. This can be the client seeing too many squirrels. The client could also be experiencing damage to plants, bird feeders, and even their vehicles!

Scenario 2: Squirrels are inside of the house. Most commonly the squirrels have gained access into the attic space of the home.

Squirrel Issues Outside

For our squirrel control Chester County clients that are experiencing scenario 1, there are many options for squirrel control. The underlying issue at hand in scenario 1 is that there are too many squirrels around the property. This sounds obvious but let’s discuss what can be done to reduce the squirrel population around the property.

Squirrel Trapping

The best option for squirrel control and population reduction is live capture and removal. This involves setting live traps to capture squirrels and then removing them from the property. We always release squirrels at least 5-10 miles away from where they were captured. Typical baits to attract and trap squirrels include peanut butter, nuts, and berries. This option will drastically lower the squirrel population and provide immediate relief if the squirrels have been causing damage.

Habitat Modification

Another option for the besieged homeowner is to make their property less appealing to squirrels. This can be as simple as removing a primary squirrel food source. A common squirrel food source is a bird feeder. Other less simple options could mean removing trees and other squirrel den locations. We never advise the removal of trees unless the tree has been planted too close to the home.

Since squirrels are rodents, they instinctually have to gnaw to keep their teeth whittled down. Sometimes we get calls related to squirrels chewing on car wires. With the modern automobile having so many electronics, this damage can be very expensive to repair. The best option for treatment is to trap the nuisance squirrel and remove it from the property. Some of our Chester County clients have applied repellents to the under side of their vehicles as a deterrent.

Squirrel Repellents

Repellents come in many different forms for squirrels. The most common types of squirrel repellents are liquid and granular repellents. Liquid repellents are often made from a substance that squirrels do not like. These substances are usually very spicy, like a hot spicy or peppermint. Liquid repellents would be applied to specific areas where squirrels are causing damage. Granular repellents are applied along a perimeter to prevent squirrels from entering the perimeter. These repellents have a moth ball smell and can be impacted by weather.

When repellents are used, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. In the case of squirrels chewing at car wires, liquid repellents have a higher success rate than granular repellents. We don’t apply repellents as a company. Our philosophy is to physically capture and remove the problem animal.

Squirrel Issues Inside

With our squirrel control Chester County in scenario 2, there is a squirrel or squirrels inside of the home. When our Chester County clients have a squirrel in the house, step 1 is to make sure that it is a squirrel. Many of our clients are surprised that they have mice instead of squirrels. We always verify what the issue is before we begin or recommend treatment.

Squirrel Inspection

Starting on the outside of the home, we will look for obvious signs of squirrel activity. This could be trees that overhang the roof of the home. Although squirrels are amazing climbers and can climb up a wall if they wanted, they prefer an easier method. Trees are the natural ladders for squirrels. Since gray squirrels’ natural home is trees, trees that overhang the roof are just an invitation for squirrel issues. We recommend having trees trimmed at least 8-10 feet away from the house. This isn’t always possible depending on how close the tree is planted to the house.

Other evidence of squirrel activity includes seeing squirrels physically on the roof. Has the client been seeing squirrels on or near the roof? Squirrels usually are not shy about their entrances into the home. The damage they cause entering the home can be quite extensive. Identifying all of the current and potential squirrel entrances is absolutely critical to successfully ridding your home of squirrels.

Inspection of the attic space can lend more evidence to whether the issue is squirrels or mice. Mice in an attic space will tunnel through the insulation and droppings will be visible. Squirrels often nest in the soffiting area and are not as easily seen in the attic. What the client is hearing in the attic and when they are hearing the noise is also helpful in the determining the issue. Hearing scratching or clawing at night is almost always just mice. Squirrels sound like an elephant above the ceiling and are most active early in the morning and around dusk.

Squirrel Exclusion

Once the squirrel entrance has been identified, getting the squirrels out is next step. Installing a one-way excluding door over the entrance is a great way to evict squirrels. The one-way door is a spring-loaded door that allows the squirrels to exit but not re-enter the attic. Other entrances or potential entrances should be sealed or closed up using steel wiring and sealant.

Trapping can also be conducted while the one-way door is evicting the squirrels. This can help capture and remove the squirrel that has been evicted so they do not try and re-enter the structure somewhere else. After a few days of no activity, the one-way door can be removed and the remaining opening sealed up. Remember, never seal up an opening until you are absolutely certain that all animals have left the attic space. An animal that is trapped in the attic can cause substantial damage trying to get out.

Prudential Pest Solutions can help!

We offer a full range of wildlife control and animal removal. Our technicians are fully licensed, insured, and experienced in identifying and resolving squirrel issues. All of our wildlife control and removal options are humane and effective. Our Chester County clients love our affordable, professional, and effective squirrel control services.

Give us a call or send us a message for your squirrel control in Chester County.

November 26, 2018January 19, 2020 Admin

Spotted Lanternfly Update 2018

Spotted Lanternfly September 2018 Update

The spotted lanternfly has become a huge problem for Chester County and surrounding areas since its introduction to the U.S. in 2014. Dr Julie Urban from the Department of Entomology at Penn State, provided an update on the spotted lantern fly in September of 2018. Although the public is becoming more informed about this invasive species, the update provided by Dr Urban shows the hard work being done to combat this insect.

Dr Urban created a very informative video outlining the work and studies being performed. If you would like to few the video, you can check it out here.

It has been a little over 4 years since the introduction of the Spotted Lanternfly (SLF) in Berks County. As homeowners and pest control professionals, we have all had to learn how to protect our trees and treat this invasive species. Initially, the PA Department of Agriculture assembled a group of scientists from all over the world to to study the SLF. Some of the international scientists came from China and Korea where the SLF originated.

Since the spotted lanternfly is an invasive species, the initial action was to institute a quarantine. In the spring of 2018, the PA Department of Agriculture starting allowing the use of insecticides to treat for the SLF. Prior to this order, pest control professionals were not legally able to treat for SLF. This is because we can only use an insecticide to treat for insects that are listed on the label of the chemical. Since SLF was not a listed pest on the label, we could not treat. In 2018, the SLF was designated as a “leaf hopper” which is a listed pest on many insecticides.

The Spotted Lanternfly is unique among other sap suckers. While many sap sucking insects, like the woolly adelgid, prefer one species of tree, the SLF feeds on many species of tree. Like the woolly adelgid, SLF feeds on longer lived trees which can cause longer term damage to the native species of tree.

Some of the treatment studies that Dr Urban describes includes the use of insecticides. There are 3 main insecticide studies happening on the SLF. One study is studying the effects of insecticides on the egg cases. The focus of this study is test the effects of treating objects that have egg masses on them. Common examples of these objects include apple and grape cases. The other two studies are focusing on fruit trees and ornamental trees. Maple trees are the common species of tree used in the study due to SLF having a preference for it. Results of the studies have been limited to date but researchers have identified 10 new compounds that are now labeled to for SLF treatments.

Some of the preventative and monitoring methods that Dr Urban discusses includes the use of lures and traps. Scientists are trying to develop a lure and trapping system to physically attract and then capture the SLF. This method can be very useful in areas where the use of insecticides is not permitted or not desired. The testing is being conducted in Pennsylvania, where SLF pressure is high, and Virginia, where SLF pressure is low.

Another aspect of attracting SLF is a study on whether SLF are attracted by sex pheromones. Sex Pheromone trapping is extremely effective in another invasive insect, the stink bug. The study showed that SLF is like other leaf hoppers in that it is not attracted by sex pheromones. Leaf hoppers, including the spotted lanternfly, call to each other through the plant. This is referred to as substrate born communication. Further study is needed to understand this method of communication.

Dr Urban discusses non-chemical treatment studies being controlled using biological control. Biological control is using a natural predator or enemy of the species and employing that for control. Since the SLF is an invasive species, there are few natural predators found here in Chester County. One study has found a parasitic wasp that lays its eggs into the egg mass of the SLF. This type of parasitic wasp was first introduced into the U.S. in 2004 to combat the Gypsy Moth infestation. Early results show that this wasp is infesting the SLF egg masses but not a high rate. This may change as the population of SLF increases.

Another area of current study that Dr Urban discusses is the micro-biome of the spotted lantern fly. The micro-biome is the bacteria located in the SLF gut. Just like humans, this bacteria lives symbiotically with the SLF and aids in digestion. Researchers are investigating a method to attack this micr-biome and achieve SLF control from the inside.

The tree of heaven is the preferred tree species that the SLF inhabit. The tree of heaven is also itself an invasive species in Pennsylvania. Dr Urban discusses a study being conducted to see whether this species of tree is necessary for SLF growth and development. Researchers have been tasked with attempting to grow, rear, reproduce, and produce viable offspring of SLF without the tree of heaven. To date, scientists have been able to through all of the life stages of the SLF without the tree of heaven except for the last 2 steps. The researchers have not been able to get the SLF to reproduce or produce viable offspring. As we enter the winter season, the studies continue and new results may be available in the spring of 2019.

New updates on the biology of the spotted lanternfly were also discussed by Dr Urban. Since the SLF feeds on the sugary sap of its host, its excrement is also sugary. This sugary excrement is called honey dew. In addition to attracting other insects, this sugary excrement causes other issues. Black Sooty Mold has been seen on grape leaves as the result of SLF infestation. This black sooty mold has the potential to block photosynthesis and thus negatively impact the plant. Since commercial grape growers apply fungicide to their crop, they have not been impacted by this type of mold. Native wild species can be effected by this type of mold however.

If you would like to learn more about the new research and studies being performed, check out the Penn State Extension website here.

We are experienced and trained to identify and treat for Spotted Lanternfly. The time of year, seasons, temperature, and moisture all impact treatments for SLF. We offer systemic treatments, soil treatments, and broadcast treatments to protect your property from spotted lantern fly. The Penn State Extension website has a great calendar to provide you with an overview on a year-round approach to SLF treatments.

If you are going to treat the spotted lanternfly yourself, make sure you read, understand, and follow the directions on any insecticide that you use. We are licensed and certified to apply restricted use pesticides to resolve your spotted lantern fly issue. In addition to spotted lanternfly, we also treat for general pests and rodents, termites, and wildlife.

Give us a call or contact us here to schedule an inspection and treatment for your spotted lanternfly problem. We have treatment options that are affordable, professional, and effective to get you and keep you pest free.

Reference: Urban, Julie M. “Spotted Lanternfly: Research Update.” Penn State Extension, Sept. 2018, extension.psu.edu/spotted-lanternfly-research-update.

Additional Lanternfly Information

November 18, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Skunk Control Chester County

Skunk Removal Chester County

Skunk Control in Chester County includes trapping, removal, exclusion, repelling, and prevention. Our licensed and insured wildlife technicians are skilled at handling skunks in a humane and effective manner. Since we have our licenses through the State of Pennsylvania, and permits through the Pennsylvania Game Commission, you can be confident that we will resolve your wildlife issue.

Chester County is home to many species of nuisance wildlife. Some of the common wildlife species we handle and remove include:

Squirrels
Groundhogs
Skunks
Raccoons
Birds
Bats
Snakes
And many more!

Ground burrowing animals

Common ground burrowing animals prevalent in Chester County include skunks and groundhogs. These animals are built for digging and excavating soil to build their dens. Most homeowners that have skunk or groundhog issues usually have the animal building a den close to the house or under a shed, porch, or deck.

Den holes for these species are typically 6-12 inches in diameter and can be quite deep and extensive. The den hole may be under a shed, porch, or deck and you may not even see the hole itself. The dens usually will have one main entrance/exit and one emergency exit located within 10 feet of the primary opening. Some of our Chester County clients will have a groundhog issue one year and the next year a skunk moves into the former groundhog hole.

Treatment for groundhogs and skunks

If the animal has burrowed under a shed, porch, deck, or at the foundation of the home, then trapping is the most effective method for animal removal. Trapping is the act of physically capturing the animal and removing it from the property. The most common type of trapping is live capture box trapping. This type of trapping involves placing a live capture trap with bait inside. The animal enters the trap, triggers the mechanism, and becomes trapped.

Since we have a permit from the Game Commission, we have the knowledge and ability to successfully handle a trapped animal. We always check the traps every 24 hours and remove any trapped animal so as not to cause any more undue stress to the animal. Knowing what to do after the trapped animal is removed from the property is vitally important. We will never release an animal that will cause problems to some other property owner and always handle all captures in accordance to Game Commission rules and regulations.

Other methods for treating ground burrowing animals include lethal trapping and lethal fumigants. If the den hole is not under a structure, then a poison fumigant can be effective. This process involves lighting a poison gas cartridge and placing it directly into the den. Always read and follow the label on the fumigant cartridge. Lethal trapping involves the use of body gripping traps over the den opening. This type of trapping should be reserved for professionals and should only be utilized when kids, humans, pets, and non-target species are not present.

If you decide to trap an animal yourself, we can help after you successfully capture the animal. Whether you intended to catch the neighborhood skunk or not, we can remove the animal from your property and return your equipment. From full service trapping services, to just animal removal after you catch the animal, Prudential Pest Solutions can help with your skunk and groundhog issues.

Skunk Exclusion

If the skunk has made its den out in a field or not under a structure, then simply filling in the den opening with soil and stone is a good method for closing the den. When the den was made under a porch, shed, or deck, we have a proven method for preventing future animal invasions. Since these animals are excellent diggers, our exclusion method involves installing a barrier that extends into the ground at least 18-24 inches.

We utilize ½ metal hardware cloth to keep skunks and groundhogs from going under your porch, deck, or shed. We excavate a trench approximately 12 inches wide by 18-24 inches deep. The hardware cloth is then screwed to the shed, porch, or deck and extended into the trench. The bottom of the hardware cloth in the trench is then bent outwards to form a base. The trench is then filled back in and your porch, shed, or deck is not wildlife proofed.

Since most the exclusion is below ground, most of the hardware cloth is unseen. For the above ground portion of the hardware cloth where it is connected to the shed, porch, or deck, we make sure that it looks good and is functional. This sometimes includes the use of composite decking on the sides of concrete porches to hold the hardware cloth and camouflage the screening. All of our exclusion projects include a warranty, so you won’t have to worry about that skunk or groundhog returning.

Skunk Spraying

A lot of clients ask me how to not get sprayed. My answer is simple, move slowly and don’t stress the animal. Easier said then done, but with all wild animals, if you move and speak slowly and calmly, they often will be calm.

When trapping for groundhogs, skunks, opossum, or raccoons, always cover your trap. You can cover your trap with a sheet, towel, wood, or anything that will keep the trap covered. When a skunk is captured, the covered trap will be easier to approach and handle and will reduce your chances of getting sprayed. Avoid any jerky movements when moving a trap that has a skunk in it.

Sometimes, even with experience, we get sprayed by a skunk. The discharge from the skunk is oil based which is why it tends to linger for so long. When I have been sprayed by a skunk, I use vinegar as my product of choice. Remove your clothing and apply the vinegar using a paper towel. My clothes then go right into the wash and I head right into the shower. Since our noses will block out a smell after a certain amount of time, you may still smell like a skunk and not realize it. Don’t worry, if you still smell like a skunk your spouse will tell you right away. If you really want to see if you still smell like a skunk, just head out in public and watch for people’s reactions when they are around you. Not very scientific but your fellow human will not disguise their disgust for your skunk odor.

Skunk Prevention

Skunks are on your property for 3 reasons. They either have a den on your property, there is food on your property, or they are looking for a mate. We covered the common den areas in the above section so let’s explore some food options. Skunks are opportunistic animals that are omnivores. Cat food left out, garbage, bird seed, and grubs are common skunk food sources in residential areas. Depending on the time of year, a simple grub treatment on your yard can eliminate their food source and they will move on.

Mating season is from January through the end of March in Chester County. Skunks will travel great distances to find a mate. There is nothing you can do to prevent a skunk that is only there to find a mate. In fact, eliminating food sources and den opportunities are the best skunk prevention tips we offer. Even if you don’t have a skunk living under your shed, porch, or deck, we can install the hardware cloth as a preventative measure.

We will get you skunk free

Our experienced wildlife technicians can handle your skunk issue humanely, quickly, and effectively. We are experts in skunk control and will make sure they don’t come back to your property. Even if you want to trap the animal yourself, we can remove the animal from your property so you don’t have to handle it. Our full-service wildlife division is here to help! Give us call or send us a message to get rid of your skunks today!

November 12, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Rodents in Chester County

Rodent Control Chester County

There are rodents in Chester County, and we have the tools to stop them!

Our rodent control services in Chester County focus on identifying the entry points, treating, and preventing re-infestations. Our Chester County clients love that we are able to resolve their rodent infestation quickly and effectively. Unlike most exterminators you have had in your home, our rodent treatments include cleaning up the droppings and treating the issue. Let our experienced, licensed, and insured technicians get you rodent free today!

Rodent Biology

Chuck Fergus’ paper on rodents for the Pennsylvania Game Commission species, (https://www.pgc.pa.gov/Wildlife/WildlifeSpecies/Documents/micevoles.pdf), is a great starting point to learning about rodent biology. In his paper, Chuck goes into detail on the numerous nuisance rodent species found in Pennsylvania. One of the common themes among the different species of rodents is how frequently they give birth, and how many offspring they produce. On average, a single mouse in one year could potentially giver birth to 50 mice total in that year! This is how a small rodent issue can turn into a full infestation in a relatively short time.

Besides being prolific breeders, another common rodent factor is their teeth. Rodent incisor teeth continue to grow throughout their entire lives. This is the reason why rodents seem to chew on anything and everything. In order to keep their teeth whittled down, rodents have to chew on objects. When in a home, rodents commonly chew on wiring, plumbing, and wood. Chewing on electrical wiring can lead to serious and devasting home fires.

Safety Issues

In addition to causing home fires, rodents pose other safety and health hazards to humans. Rodents can contaminate the food of both humans and pets. Any uncovered or unsealed food sources are prime habitats for rodents. Rodents love to get into the food, eat, and then leave their droppings. Another more serious health issue from rodents is Hantavirus. Hantavirus is a sometimes-fatal virus that occurs due to exposure to infected rodent feces and urine. The CDC has some great information on Hantavirus that you can read here. ( https://www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/index.html).

Extreme caution should be used when removing or cleaning up any rodent droppings. We utilize a HEPA filtered vacuum to safely and effectively remove rodent droppings. Our system contains the droppings and any virus particles so that your home and air quality can be improved. Not many pest control companies actually clean-up rodent droppings but we do, and we do it the right way!

Key Entry Ways

When trying to determine how the mice are getting into the home, there are some “hot spots” to look for. We look for areas where electrical lines, HVAC lines, and plumbing come into the home. Sometimes where the lines come through the wall, there is no sealant around the opening allowing rodents to enter the structure. Another common entry point is the garage. Usually there is a rubber seal on the sides and bottom of the garage door. Rodents can easily chew these rubber seals and enter the garage. One last common entry point is areas such as louvered vents and gable vents. Most rodents can climb so entry points don’t have to be at ground level.

Exclusion

Exclusion is the process of sealing up entry points and potential entry points to prevent rodent infestations. Note that this process should be for preventing infestations and should not be done if there is a current infestation. The reason for not excluding during an active infestation is because we want the rodents to be able to exit the home during the treatment process. If you seal up all of the entry and exit points during an infestation, you increase the likelihood that a mouse will die in the house and begin to smell.

We treated the rodents and now its 2 weeks later, time to exclude the home. The previous section highlighted some common rodent entrances. For gaps and cracks, we use a product called Xcluder. Xcluder is a woven fabric that is used to create a physical barrier that rodents cannot chew through. We then apply caulk to seal the barrier into place and create a water-proof seal. Any hole or opening the size of a dime or larger should be sealed.

Rodent Treatments

For current rodent infestations, we utilize a combination of rodenticides to resolve the issue. Rodenticides, also known as rodent baits, are used because of their quick and long-term results. We like to use a combination of rodenticides so that we don’t run into issues with picky rodents not liking our rodent bait selection. Using bait blocks, soft bait, and dusts, we are able to get rodent issues under control fast.

Our rodent treatments are always focused on human, pet, and non-target species safety. This means that we will never apply rodenticides in areas or situations that could allow humans, pets, or non-target species to come into contact with our bait. We always supply a detailed list of any baits used on your property so you know exactly what and how much was applied and where.

For the DIYers, always read the instructions on the bait that you are using and only use the bait in a manner in which the manufacturer instructs. Our rodent treatments utilize commercial strength rodent bait. More importantly, our rodent treatments are conducted in the right areas of the home to completely resolve your rodent issue.

Our initial rodent treatments include a thorough and detailed inspection, proper clean-up of accessible rodent droppings, and expert treatment. After the initial treatment, our follow-up services include a full exclusion service and information regarding long term rodent proofing and maintenance.

Preventative Plans

Our preventative maintenance plans include rodent control. This means that we can and will keep your home pest and rodent free year-round. All of our preventative maintenance plans include a warranty that includes free in-between service calls if you have an issue in-between services. Our Chester County clients get interior and exterior pest and rodent control services for a very affordable price. Give us a call, or send us a text or message to get a price quote or to schedule a service.

Citations

“Wildlife Species.” Wildlife-Related Diseases, www.pgc.pa.gov/Wildlife/WildlifeSpecies/Pages/default.aspx.

“Hantavirus.” Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 9 Feb. 2018, www.cdc.gov/hantavirus/index.html.

November 5, 2018March 8, 2020 Admin

Tiny House Termite Study

In our service areas of Chester County, York County, and Dauphin County there are many questions about termites. In our part of the country, we have subterranean termites. In this post, we examine a recent study and how it effects termite control and homes in Pennsylvania.

The subterranean termite is known as the “silent destroyer”. This is because their damage often goes un-noticed for years. Once the termite infestation is found, the damage could be quite severe.

In January of 2018, the National Pest Management Association (NPMA) conducted a study on termite damage. You can check out the video and study specifics here. The NPMA wanted to conduct a study to see how destructive termites could be on a home. Of course, we all know that termites are destructive, but few have seen how destructive they can be.

Subterranean termites live and move underground. As such, termite activity can go un-noticed for a very long time. Many of our clients find out that they have termites through three different scenarios:

Scenario 1: You go to buy or sell a home and an inspector performing a wood destroying insect inspection (WDI) finds termites.
Scenario 2: You are doing some renovation to the home and you or the contractor finds termites
Scenario 3: You notice that once a year you see what look like ants with wings in a specific part of the house. They arrive for a few days in the spring, die, and then you don’t see them for another year.

In all three of these scenarios, the termites have been present and causing damage to your home. For how long is unknown because most of the damage happens in areas you can’t see. This is why this NPMA “Tiny Termite House” is so fascinating. We get to see how much damage and how quickly the damage occurs in the house.

In the study, the NPMA built a miniature house. This house is not a doll house that only has four walls and some floors. No, this is a very realistic miniature home meant to mimic an actual home. This tiny termite house was constructed using the same techniques and materials as a full-size house. The tiny house had full electric and plumbing, drywall, a swimming pool, and hardwood floors. This tiny termite house was constructed on top of a poured concrete slab and included a concrete porch. Multiple cameras are placed to watch and track the progress/damage by the termites.

After construction of the home, approximately half a million termites are released into the foundation around the tiny house. The termites can be seen entering the soil, and the vulnerable areas around the home. Termites are looking for soil, wood and darkness. As the video shows, the termites can be seen entering gaps and crevices where the porch meets the house and where the wood meets the concrete at the foundation. As the study progresses, the termites begin to form mud tunnels which allow them to go from the soil to the wood without being exposed to the outside world.

After approximately one month, the researchers investigate what type of damage is occurring to the home. The termites had consumed most of the floor joists and plywood under the hardwood floors. In one of the videos from the study, the camera does a close up of the hardwood floors. The flooring is warped throughout the home due to the moisture created by the termites. After the termites had finished with the floor joists and subfloor, they started moving up to the wall framing behind the drywall. When the researchers lift up the home, there are “100’s of thousands” of live termites found under the concrete foundation slab. At the conclusion of the study, the tiny house is labeled as structurally unsound and thus unlivable.

This study by the NPMA shows us a few interesting things about termites and the damage they cause. First it showed just how rapid the termites found the weak points around the foundation of the home and entered. Once inside, they were able to absolutely devastate the structural components of the home. Second, the study made it interesting to actually observe the termites in action and the aftermath of their damage. Since the termites are subterranean, watching visible activity in the real world is rarely possible. Lastly, the study showed that you can’t judge a book by its cover. After the tiny house is labeled structurally unsound, the camera zooms out and we can see that the house looks pristine. Besides the warped floor boards, the home doesn’t show any outward signs of a major problem.

The important takeaway from this study is that you need to have an experienced and dedicated company inspect and treat for termites. Prudential Pest Solutions has the experience and treatment options to best fit your need and budget. We can make sure your home is treated properly and then is warrantied against future infestations. This warranty can be transferred in the event you sell the home, or simply renewed each year for peace of mind. Termites, if identified early on, can be treated and eradicated. Don’t let your home look great on the outside but have a serious problem on the inside. If you live in Chester County, York County, or Dauphin County, we can get you termite free! Contact us to schedule an appointment today.

Citation:

Tiny Termite House Reveals How Termites Destroy From the Inside Out. (2018). Retrieved November 4, 2018, from https://www.pestworld.org/tiny-termite-house/

National Pest Management Association

Additional Termite Information

October 29, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Rodent Control Starts on the Outside

Whenever we get a service request for rodents, we always start on the outside of the property. Rodents do not just magically appear on the inside of your home. The inside of your home rarely contains all of the necessary resources that rodents need to survive and thrive. Therefore, rodents tend to be able to enter and exit the structure and this is where treatments should be focused.

Whether you live in a single-family home, row home, or apartment, there are always methods and techniques to better rodent proof your dwelling. With row homes and apartments, the rodent issue may be coming from the neighbor’s side and your options may be more limited. Single-family homes do not have as many issues with neighbor’s causing the infestation, because the home isn’t connected to another home., but can be problematic to rodent proof due to their larger size.

As a general rule, mice only need an opening the size of a nickel or even a dime to enter a structure. This very small size opening can sometimes be difficult to spot or difficult to eliminate. For example, if the neighbor’s home has a large opening that is allowing rodents to enter the structure, then your home could become infested if your home is connected. Another example of a difficult situation to seal up rodent openings are in older homes that have stone foundations. The gaps and crevices that are naturally there due to the construction, can provide a super-highway for rodents to enter the structure. More typically, rodents enter the structure through gaps under the garage door, door frames, and areas where plumbing/wiring/HVAC lines come into the house.

Exclusion is always a great option

So what options does the homeowner have to treat and then prevent future rodent infestations? Ideally, all of the current and potential rodent entrances would be sealed. This should not be first if you are currently experiencing a rodent infestation on the inside of the home. Steel wool and caulk are sufficient for sealing up most gaps and entrances. We use a product called “xcluder” cloth to seal up larger openings and even prevent larger rodents and animals from entering the structure. Remember, caulk or sealant alone will not keep rodents from entering the structure since they are known for chewing materials that are much stronger. Steel wool and copper meshing are also great alternatives to block entrances.

Rodent Bait Used the Right Way

If you have sealed up all of the openings, or have a situation where it is not possible to physically seal up the openings, then the usage of rodenticides is the next best approach. There are many different types of rodenticides that can be purchased and used. Always read the directions and follow them to the fullest. We always use a lockable rodent station to house the rodenticide. These stations are placed along the outside perimeter of the structure to reduce the rodent population around the structure. The stations themselves are designed to only allow rodents to enter the station and feed on the rodenticide. This is important because we want to make sure that only rodents and not pets, people, or non-target species have access to the inside of the stations. So as not to draw attention to the fact that you have rodent stations on the outside of your home, many stations look like black boxes, fake rocks, and even circuit boxes. Although liquid rodenticides can be used in these stations, most often a solid or gel rodenticidal bait is placed in the station.

Professional exterminators and pest management professionals can apply a rodenticide dust to gaps and crevices. This dust is placed on rodent entrances and the rodents consume the rodenticidal dust when they groom themselves. The dust can be very effective in circumstances where the rodents are not eating the bait. This method is reserved for pest control professionals only as the rodenticidal dust is not readily available to homeowners.

To Repel or Not Repel, that is the question

Repellants are another option that homeowners use to combat rodent infestations. Repellents can be very effective in limited circumstances. Ultrasonic repellents that are plugged into an outlet and emit an ultrasonic sound are not very effective in my opinion. I have seen many active rodent infestations that are thriving in areas that have these ultrasonic devices installed. Granular repellents utilize an odor to repel the rodents. Most of the time the odor is a mothball type smell that you are to sprinkle around the outside of the home. Not only do people not like the smell, rain and other weather conditions will impact and diminish the effectiveness of the repellent.

The only repellent that I have seen work on a consistent basis was one in which the repellent had a spicy flavor to it. The situation that this works the best is when rodents are chewing on a specific area or on wires. The spicy repellent can be applied to the specific areas where the rodents are chewing that it should stop them from chewing. Of course, you need to read the directions and apply only as the label dictates. Watch out for staining and for where pets have access before you apply.

We are experts in resolving rodent issues in residential and commercial properties. If you have been fighting a rodent infestation for too long, give us a call and we can get you on the path to being rodent free!

October 22, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

It’s cold outside, why do I need an exterminator in the cold months?

As the temperature drops lower and lower as we approach winter, insects commonly will do one of three things. Insects will either die off in the colder months, go dormant, or move indoors. In this article, we will highlight some of the colder month services that we provide.

Interior Pest Control

For the insects that have not died off or gone dormant, interior pest control may be needed. Insects can thrive in the moisture prone areas of your home year-round. Common moisture prone areas in the home are the basement, crawlspace, attic, utility room, bathroom, kitchen, garage, and other areas of the home that has piping. An interior pest control program that utilizes sprays, dusts, and/or baits, can be extremely effective in resolving most common insect issues in the home. We pride ourselves on limiting the amount of pesticides we apply in the home, while still providing an effective treatment. Often times this can be accomplished by applying the pesticide inside of the walls or voids and applying a sealant to block off the pest’s access.

Rodent Control

Rodents tend to move indoors during the colder months of the year. Since rodent control does not require the use of sprays, we are able to tackle the rodent issue on the inside and outside of the home. Our number one priority in any rodent treatment is determining how and where the rodents are gaining access to the interior of the property. Since mice need only a hole the size of a dime to enter the structure, you need a trained eye to spot the entrance points. We use a combination of rodenticides on the inside and outside of the home in conjunction with physically sealing and eliminating the entrance points to resolve rodent infestations. Rodenticides are always placed out of reach of people, pets, and non-target species. Our treatments include the inspection, treatment, and removal of rodent droppings.

Exterior Pest Management

During the colder months of winter, we do not have the big tanks on our vehicles. Typically, during the warm months of summer, our exterior treatments involve us using our big tanks to spray the foundation and eaves of your home. In the winter months, we change our tactics to include the application of baits and dust. Granular baits around the exterior perimeter of your home can be extremely effective against foraging insects. Using baits in combination with a full inspection and exterior sealing can prevent big issues from occurring when the weather eventually warms up in the spring. Our trained technicians know where bugs like to enter the home and can effectively treat and seal them out.

Wildlife Control

Wild animals like squirrels and raccoons love to enter the home in the colder months as they look for suitable dens for their unborn young. We are fully licensed by the Pennsylvania Game Commission to effectively and humanely evict these unwanted guests. Our approach is to evict the animal(s) from the property, seal up and prevent re-entry, and clean-up/disinfect any animal wastes left behind. We utilize live traps, one-way doors, and special wildlife sealant to effectively and permanently keep animals out of your home. Other animals that we traps/remove/evict are skunks, groundhogs, chipmunks, birds, snakes, opossum, and many more!

Commercial Pest Control

Many industries are required to have a pest control program in place. Restaurants and hotels often fall into this category as they want to maintain a clean and pest free environment. We service many other industries to include hospitals, schools, office buildings, and manufacturing plants. Basically, if you have a business and don’t want pests, we can help. We offer preventative plans that will keep your business pest free year-round.

What sets us apart?

Our clients are often impressed by our “inform first” mentality. We love talking pest management and believe that an informed client is a helpful partner in eliminating pest issues. Our technicians are always respectful of your home and situation and will resolve your pest issue with professional and effective treatment methods. We utilize HEPA vacuums to remove insects and animal debris so you don’t have to worry about the clean-up or the hazards associated with insect/wildlife debris. Give us a call or shoot us a message to see why we are South Central Pennsylvania’s best exterminators!

October 16, 2018February 28, 2019 Admin

Why spraying a bee or wasp nest doesn’t kill the nest?

It seems like overnight that small bee or wasp nest has exploded into a full grown, angry, huge nest. Maybe you’ve tried spraying them with a hardware store insecticide. If you have sprayed them with an aerosol insecticide, such as Raid, you may even have a large pile of dead bees or wasps on the ground near the nest. And yet, the bees and wasps continue to fly in and out of the nest like nothing has happened. Why didn’t that aerosol insecticide kill off the nest when it can clearly kill individual bees and wasps?

Depending on the type of bees or wasps you are dealing with, an aerosol insecticide sometimes is the best choice. Species such as paper wasps, or other “open nest” species

can easily be dispatched with an aerosol spray. This is because their nest is open to the environment and the chemical can easily be applied to all of the members of the colony and the colony material itself. If you are reading this article and have gotten to this point, this is probably not the situation that you are dealing with. No, you are most likely dealing with a hornet’s nest or a yellow jacket nest.

Yellow Jackets, depending on the type of species, will either prefer to make their nest in a hole in the ground or in the wall of a structure. If the nest is in a hole in the ground, there is typically just one main opening where the bees are entering and exiting. If the nest is in a structure, the nest itself may only have one entrance/exit, but the bees could be entering the nest through many gaps and crevices. Hornets typically build their nests on the sides of building or on tree limbs. Their nests are completely covered in a protective shell and usually have just one main opening for entrance and exit.

Let’s look at what happens when someone sprays an aerosol to try and kill a yellow jacket nest. Whether the nest is located in the ground or in a structure, the aerosol chemical has a tough time penetrating far enough into the nest to kill off the colony. Yes, you will kill some bees, but not enoug

h to kill off the nest. The chemical and method used are not enough to get all the way into the colony and the chemical itself doesn’t last very long to provide any residual protection. The colony is able to replace the bees that were killed in a fairly quick amount of time and the colony will continue to thrive

If you attempt to eliminate a hornet’s nest with a can of aerosol insecticide, you are a far braver person than I am. The same issues are present with applying an aerosol insecticide into the nest, mainly the chemical not reaching the entire colony. Since hornets are much larger and far more aggressive, they will not tolerate for very long someone applying a chemical into their nest. They will quickly, and aggressively begin to defend their home leaving you and whoever was helping you, in great danger.

So, what is the best way to treat and kill off an established nest. Insecticidal Dusts are the by far the most effective method for treating and killing an entire nest of bees or wasps. The dust, when applied using an appropriate applicator, can reach every nook and cranny of the nest. The dust works a little slower than an aerosol chemical but has a much longer and more effective knockdown. The amount of time that you are exposed to the nest is also greatly reduced. As opposed to just standing there at the entrance of the nest holding down the applicator on the spray can, you can simply walk up, apply the dust in one or two bursts and walk away. The dust will begin to work on the bees directly hit by the dust and they will transfer it to others simply by touching them. The last great feature of the dust is that the bees that are out of the nest and foraging, when they return to the nest, they will contact the dust and be killed. Within 24 hours, the nest is usually completely dead and the physical nest can be removed (if in a structure or side of a structure or tree) or covered up, if in the ground.